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If you’ve ever driven past The Upper Crust in Collaroy, you’ve probably noticed the queue snaking out the door. Busier than Wynyard Station at peak hour, this unassuming pie shop has a cult following. And for good reason – those pies are downright legendary.
For owner Anthony Gualdi, steak and gravy practically run in his veins. His family’s legacy in the pie-making business dates back over a century, and he is the fifth generation to carry on the tradition. From humble beginnings in Sydney to an international pie empire, Anthony’s journey is a story baked in passion, tradition, and, of course, really good pastry.
The family has been in the pie-making business since 1906. It all started in a bakery at Harris Park in Sydney, where Anthony’s great-great-grandfather began crafting pies and cakes. Since then, the art of pie-making has been passed down through the generations – his great-grandfather, grandfather, father, brothers, and now his seven-year-old son Hugo all following in the flour-dusted footsteps of their ancestors.
“I grew up in my Dad’s shop, the famous Pier Pie Shop in Manly, sweeping floors and topping pies,” says Anthony. “I started working when I was about eight years old. My grandfather was the legend, but my father was always my hero. I’m the fifth generation of pie makers, my sons are the sixth, and my grandson, Cliffy, who’s almost two, will be the seventh. We’ll give him a couple of years before he starts!”
Beth Warnecke and Anthony’s brothers Jason (owner of the Allambie Pie Shop) and Rob (who helps run Upper Crust) are also part of this rich family tradition.
Where It All Began
The story of The Upper Crust dates back to 1948, when Anthony’s grandfather returned from WWII and bought a tea house in Collaroy. He transformed it into a pie and cake shop, which would eventually become the beloved Upper Crust we know today.
However, ownership changed hands over the years. The Kerslake family took over in 1959, running the business for an impressive 27 years before selling it in 1986 to Sylvia and Fran. They continued the legacy, officially naming it The Upper Crust.
Meanwhile, Anthony’s grandfather, George Gambrill, went on to open several other pie shops across The Beaches before launching The Cronulla Pie Shop in 1963. It quickly became an institution, serving hundreds of pies daily with queues out the door. This success laid the groundwork for future family ventures including the birth of Shakespeare’s Pies.
Building an Em‘Pie’re
In 1994, Anthony took on Shakespeare’s in Manly, which soon grew into an international franchise with 60 locations across Australia, New Zealand, and Canada. Despite his global success, he always had his heart set on reclaiming his grandfather’s original shop in Collaroy.
For years, he kept in touch with Sylvia, who had taken over from The Kerslakes with partner Fran. “We always joked that the shop was rightfully mine and that she was just looking after it for me,” says Anthony. “After almost 20 years, she finally called me in 2005 and said, ‘I’m ready to sell it to you now.’ She could have sold it to anyone. It was a thriving business, but she always knew it would end up in my hands.”
Pie-making is all about tradition, and Anthony is passionate about keeping the original recipes alive. “Some of our recipes date back to 1906, while others are favourites from the Kerslake and Sylvia era. But we’re always innovating, adding new flavours and tweaking old ones,” he says. “The key is quality ingredients. We use natural, premium cuts of meat, and zero shortcuts.”
While Anthony loves to experiment with flavours, the all-time bestseller remains the classic minced beef pie. “It’s funny, after all these years, people still love a plain old mince pie the most,” he laughs. “But the Mexican Beef and Chicken, Brie and Avocado are close contenders. Personally, though, I’m all about the Veg Mexican.”
Big Plans for a Bigger Future
The Upper Crust is about to undergo a major facelift. Plans include a new balcony, indoor seating and a larger serving area to handle the ever-growing queue. “Everything will be exactly the same, just bigger and better,” Anthony reassures. “We’re also launching a ‘bake-at-home’ pie range and partnering with delivery services for online orders. But don’t worry, we won’t close for a single day. People need their pies!”
There’s something magnetic about The Upper Crust. You’re driving down Pittwater Road, and suddenly, that green and yellow sign catches your eye. Before you know it, your indicator’s on, you’ve pulled over, and you’re halfway through a Chicken and Mushroom pie, wondering how you got there. It’s pure pie magic.
If you haven’t introduced your kids to the magic of The Upper Crust, this weekend is the perfect time. Grab a pie, soak in the history, stop and have a chat to the regulars and pass the tradition down to the next generation.
